During the often fearful times of the coronavirus pandemic, much-needed meals are finding their way to  many of those in need within Melbourne’s Aboriginal communities; and it’s top-notch tucker direct from the kitchens of one of the city’s most well-known restaurants – Charcoal Lane.

A social enterprise restaurant operated by Mission Australia, Charcoal Lane is renowned for its work in supporting Aboriginal youth just as much as it is for its critically-acclaimed food.

Up to 30 Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander young people every year participate in the Charcoal Lane program of hospitality industry training, employment and education.

The voice of youth for elders

Troy Crellin, Mission Australia Manager of Social Enterprise Programs said that when the restaurant had to close its doors for normal trading on the 19th of March, it was the young trainees who gave voice to the need for community action.

“We asked our trainees what their major concerns were during the social lockdown period,” Mr Crellin said. “It came back loud and clear that their number one concern was for elders in the community.”

After consultation with local Aboriginal elders and leaders, Charcoal Lane’s kitchens were quickly repurposed to produce at-cost nutritious meals. 

Once prepared, the meals are passed on for distribution to the community through partnerships with a number of key supporting organisations. These include: the Victorian Aboriginal Health Service (VAHS), Aboriginal Community Elders Services, Yarra City Council’s Aboriginal Support Network, Aboriginal Housing Victoria, cohealth’s Billabong BBQ Program, and Melbourne Aboriginal Youth Support and Recreation Co-operative.

For the VAHS staff members involved in distributing food it’s also an opportunity to go beyond the immediacy of food, and engage in general discussion on health matters.

VAHS CEO Michael Graham said: “In some ways what we are doing alongside Charcoal Lane and [Darebin] council is not new.

“For many Aboriginal people, looking out for each other and our community, and being resilient when challenging times hit are important values.”

Peak production

In Melbourne’s northern suburbs, the City of Darebin has been an active supporter of the program from its outset. At its peak, that support saw funding for an additional 150 meals per day going out to community members in need.

That support has seen 400 meals per day being prepared and delivered, and at certain stages that number grew to 667 meals.

Darebin Mayor, Councillor Susan Rennie, told the Koori Mail: “We recognised an opportunity to partner with Charcoal Lane, VAHS and other organisations, and demonstrate to Aboriginal elders that there was definitely support for them during these difficult times.”

Even with restrictions easing at the beginning of June, support for the social meals initiative is far from waning. Darebin Council renewed its commitment, albeit at a lesser level, and Moreland City Council came on board, funding 150 meals three days a week.

“The initiative will continue on an as-needs basis as we move from crisis to recovery,” Mr Crellin said.

“Social and economic challenges are likely to continue even as COVID-19 restrictions ease; and the Mission Australia Charcoal Lane team will continue to advocate for the needs of our community.” 

“I think it was the mushrooms”

Without doubt the food emerging from the Charcoal Lane kitchens under the program is living up to the restaurant’s reputation for quality and innovation – with an occasional humorous result.

“I was actually told off by an Aunty who felt a bit too challenged by the combination of Russian and traditional with an emu stroganoff,” Mr Crellin said. 

“I think it was the mushrooms.”